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Tues.- Wed. 2/17-18
Lufthansa flights aboard an A340 from JFK to Frankfurt, then on to Venice via an airbus brought us to our
destination before 10 AM where we met our very able tour leader, OLGA. A water taxi zipped us over the
lagoon to the Continental Hotel on the Grand Canal where we are to spend the next 3 nights. Our “old elegant”
room overlooks the canal. It is on the third floor, 62 steps up, down and around, and a labyrinth of passageways
to maneuver to access it. Jet lag notwithstanding, we soon set out on a long walk to acquaint ourselves with
this crumbling, but still vibrant city. It is CARNEVALE time, crowded with masked and costumed merrymakers,
who support the shops and sidewalk vendors with their multicolored wares. Unfortunately, the weather is
unpleasantly cold, cloudy and damp. We are only 13 on this initial part of our trip – a very manageable and
cohesive group.. Our most delicious welcome dinner was held in our hotel.
Thurs. 2/18
What a miserable day! Bitter cold, very windy, persistent rain and – yes – even driving snow greeted us
this morning. Our local guide, Peter, tried heroically to show off Venice’s jewels to their best advantage,
and we dutifully trudged after him, avoiding puddles, occasional floods, and seeking any shelter even
remotely available, while weaving thru sodden crowds seeking the same. The almost unbelievable St. Marks
Cathedral, and magnificent buildings surrounding it, have stood for centuries thru weather worse than this,
and are dramatic evidence of their stubborn determination. We did learn a lot, and rather enjoyed our tour
in a perverse way, tho a cappuccino stop thereafter (e$1.50 standing at the bar, more if you choose to sit
at one of the tiny tables available), provided us with the most soothing drink I have ever had.
We returned, wet and exhausted, to our hotel, to strip off all our sodden clothing, nibble on some
tidbits purloined from the breakfast buffet, and rest from our wet adventure. This evening, we dined
with new friend Betty, and again braved the elements to take a vaporetta ride back to visit an almost
deserted but beautifully lighted St.Marks Square in the rain.
Fri. 2/20
It is still very cold and windy, but the rain is now lighter and sporadic. We are transported by private
boat to MURANO, where we observe glass blowing at the Murano Glass Works, and enjoy visiting their wonderful
museum of glass. We visit the historic church of St. Maria & Donato, window shop the many glass shops along
the busy quay, and sip hot cappuccino at a local taverna. Since the weather has improved, we decide to hike
back to St. Marks Square in the afternoon, to partake in the Carnevale, now in full swing. Masqueraders in
elaborate costumes mill around, posing for the multitudes of photographers who throng around them.
The atmosphere is joyous, with many revelers in colorful masks, outlandish hats, or painted faces.
It was a fun place to be. We ate at the buffet in the Ferrovia (Railway station). Their convoluted
method of choosing, ordering and paying for the food and drink offered us no end of confusion and laughs.
Venice is a very, very expensive city to visit, which, combined with a current rate of exchange very
unfavorable to Americans, makes it even moreso.
Sat. 2/21
We left our hotel in pouring rain, in turn by vaporetta and a succession of public busses necessitated by
emergency rules concerning the ongoing Carnevale, to our awaiting tour bus taking us to SLOVENIA.
While crossing the forested Alps, we met snow and sleet that caused our ill equipped bus’ windshield to
cake with ice, forcing the driver to stop periodically to scrape it. When we finally arrived at the
PARK HOTEL on the shores of LAKE BLED, a fairyland of snow awaited us. The view from our balcony is
inspirational, even in the low hanging fog, as the snow continues to fall, and a local band and costumed people
parade beneath our window. Later, we visit a nearby square crowded with happy children and their parents,
all in colorful costumes, having a wonderful time playing and dancing to the music of a band, in their own
interpretation of carnevale. We watched the festivities from the window of a local pub that sported its own
share of carnevale. Later, we walked thru the snow about ˝ mile to beautiful (and unheated) St. Martin’s Church
to attend 6PM mass. The main part of our trip was beginning today, so we rushed back to join the newcomers in a
lovely welcome dinner at our hotel.
Sun. 2/22
Rain again all night, freezing on the fallen snow to make crystals of every twig. In our new, permanent bus,
with trusty driver Misha, we drove around Lake Bled, our bus brushing tree branches bent low with the added
weight, and sending cascades of ice crystals down upon us. We continued on thru picture perfect alpine towns
and LAKE BOHINJ in their national park. In every clear field, outlined in the snow, we saw many KOZOLEZOLEC.
These are open wooden rectangles, about 8’ high and anywhere from 10’ long to whatever, with short peaked roofs,
and within the frame are many spaced horizontal boards. These are used for drying corn and other grains at
harvest time. We were served a delicious, typical Slovenian lunch in a local farmhouse. Later, we tested
the warm jacuzzi and large swimming pool on the 5th floor of our hotel.
Continue...
This trip to Italy and the Dalmatian Coast was made Feb. 17 – Mar. 5, 2004 by a New York State couple.
Your comments are welcome.
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