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Mon. 12/10
The ASWAN HIGH DAM, built 1960-71 and 365’ high provides Egypt with electricity and controls the annual flooding
of the Nile. It has created LAKE NASSER, the largest man made lake in the world, 300 miles long. The old dam,
built in the early 1890’s, is still in use. The TEMPLE OF ISIS, dating from the 26th Dynasty and located on
PHILAE ISLAND, was submerged for periods of time after the construction of the old dam and threatened by total
submersion in Lake Nasser when the High Dam was under construction. So the entire complex was moved to
AGILIKA ISLAND where it proudly sets in royal splendor in beautiful surroundings. We visited the PAPYRUS MUSEUM
where we learned the secret of making paper from the papyrus plant, and enjoyed a display of beautiful papyrus
art. Later, we sailed on FELUCCA boats with their lateen (triangular) sails around ELEPHANTINE ISLAND, with its
views of the mausoleum of the Aga Khan. Finally we visited a Nubian village to mingle with members of this
ethnic minority and visit several of their primitive homes. We arrived at KOM OMBO just as the sun was setting
and the temple was illuminated. Enchanting! After our typical Egyptian dinner, the whole group had a really
fun evening playing silly games in the lounge.
Thurs. 12/11
The TEMPLE AT KOM OMBO, located on a hilltop overlooking the Nile honors SOBEK, the crocodile god (evil) and
HAROESIS (Good) the falcon headed god. The temple contains 2 identical sides, perfectly symmetrical along its
main axis, which reflect its dual nature. Another impressive edifice with beautiful artwork. Today’s lecture
and discussion was onEgypt today, which proved very informative and stimulating. That evening, a folkloric
show entertained, with a 5 pc. band (drums mostly), singer, belly dancer, male dancers and an amazing performance
by a WHIRLING DERVISH. How can they spin like that hundreds of times without falling over. I’m dizzy just watching.
Wed. 12/12
A long bus ride from our berth at ESNA took us to the VALLEY OF THE KINGS which contains 64 known tombs of some
of Egypt’s most notable pharohs: Ramses I, Seti, Amenophis and Tutankhamen. En route, we visited the LUXOR TEMPLE.
An avenue of sphinxes with human heads leads you to the temple itself. At the entranceway are a pylon, 2 statues
of RAMSES II and a pink granite obelisk. The interiors of the 2 courts contain rows of columns and painted
walls, and the HYPOSTYLE HALL and TEMPLE OF ANUM. On entering the famed Valley of the Kings, we stopped at
a pair of massive statues of AMENHOPHIS, known as the COLOSSI OF MEMNON. The valley itself is a harsh arid
mountainous area of jagged rock and sand, stunningly beautiful in its starkness. Here the Pharohs chose to
be buried safe (they had hoped) from disturbance. We visited the tombs of RAMSES IV, IX and III, all slightly
different and in various states of disrepair, but all containing beautiful art work and paintings that still
retained good color after so many centuries.
In the VALLEY OF THE QUEENS, we saw the temple of QUEEN HATSHEPSUT
(from the outside only, since most art had been removed from inside) and the tomb of AMEN KHOPSHEF, an heir to
the throne who died in childhood. The long ride back to our riverboat was thru a fairyland of countryside lush
with fertile fields of sugar cane and vegetables, mud houses and peasants busy with their animals and farm chores.
The mode of transportation here is the donkey and heavily laden cart, and by foot. It is a peaceful, relaxed
way of living, impervious to our honking speeding bus careening past and barely dodging people, animals and
vehicles that know no concept of right of way. Tonight is a captain’s farewell dinner as we disembark the
ANUKET tomorrow.
Thurs. 12/13
We flew back to Cairo and relaxed for the remainder of the day and overnight at the lush HELIOPOLIS MOEVENPICK HOTEL
in prep. for our grueling flight back home tomorrow.
Fri. 12/14
The flight home – 12 hours – was tiring but uneventful. We arrived back at JFK at 2:30 PM.
Notes:
Egypt……a mysterious land so rich in history, art, engineering feats, diverse cultures, stark beauty.
An enchanting visit – never to be forgotten.
Everyone we met was friendly and sympathetic for our recent terrible tragedy of the 9/11 World Trade Center.
We were especially protected from harm by the government and felt quite safe.
The 9/11 attack had caused massive travel cancellations, particularly here in Egypt. In that sense, we
benefitted, since most of the riverboats were berthed unoccupied, and all of the important sites were
devoid of crowds at this, usually the most crowded tourist season of the year.
Back to start of trip...
This trip to cruise the Nile River in Egypt was made Dec. 01-14, 2001 by a New York State couple.
Your comments are welcome.
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