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Mon. 2/23
We opted today to take the excursion into KLAGENFURT in AUSTRIA. This requires a 2 hour drive that includes
the newly opened 5 mile KARAVANKE TUNNEL thru the Alps, and crossings at the Slovenia/Austria border.
Of course the scenery is said to be lovely, but most of our view was of fog and rain. In the handsome
town of Klagenfurt, capital of the Austrian province of CARTHINIA, we were met by a local guide who
filled us in on hight points of the long history of the region, and pointed out the beautiful architecture
and points of interest. After a typical schnitzel lunch, we found the 16th century baroque Cathedral of
Sts. Peter and Paul, its unassuming exterior belying the striking beauty inside. This evening, SASHO SKALISH
conducted a seminar on “Today’s Slovenia”. He was informative, humorous, and incredibly interesting.
Tues. 2/24
At least a foot of new snow fell last night, transforming the beautiful view from our hotel balcony to
breathtaking. The hour’s ride to LJUBLJANA, the capitol city of Slovenia, was an unending scene of
evergreens bowing to the ground, with their heavy burdens of snow. In the city, our wonderful local
guide pointed out many of the landmarks by bus, and later on a walking tour thru snow and slush, as
the snow continued to fall. We witnessed a portion of a ballet rehearsal at the Opera House, marvelled
at the unique interior of the cathedral, and were given a comprehensive history of the city. Ljubljana
is a very attractive city, with a narrow river separating ‘old’ and ‘new’ towns. It would be delightful
to wander about in, in better weather. We lunched with the locals at Romeo’s Pub, an enjoyable experience.
In late afternoon we walked the perimeter of Lake Bled, some 4 plus miles thru ice, slush and mud, but
always surrounded by the stunning ice fairyland.
Wed. 2/25
The sun came out today…the first we’ve seen of it since arriving one week ago. Our scenic drive today
was enhanced by the cold, clear weather. The POSTOJNA CAVES are the largest of hundreds of limestone
(karst) caves in Slovenia, and certainly the largest we have ever visited. A railway takes you 2 km
into the mountain, and you continue on foot another km or so to see the amazing stalagmite and stallacite
formations on various levels throughout. Such spectacular sights! A real highpoint of our trip!
Continuing across the border into Croatia (HRVATSKA) we arrived at OPATIJA, a popular resort town on
the ISTRIAN PENINSULA of the Adriatic coast, sometimes dubbed “Nice of the east”. Our accomodation is
a private annex of the HOTEL MILENNIUM, where we will spend the next 4 nights in a handsome renovated
villa. High ceilings and elegant appointments in our spacious suite, with a glimpse of the Adriatic
beyond the garden greeted us, and a short welcome reception and orientation tour settled us comfortably.
Thurs. 2/26
A lovely breakfast in our private dining room began the day, which unfortunatily, was again rainy.
We drove south along the shore to the nearby city of RIJEKA, the second largest in Croatia, then wove
up the mountain to the Franciscan Church of OUR LADY OF TRSAT. This popular shrine of Our Lady is noted
for the fact that from 1291-1296, on this spot, the home of our Blessed Mother temporarily reposed after
being moved during the wars with the Moslems. It is now permanently located in the Italian city of Loretto.
Many mementos of those cured in body or soul thru Our Lady’s intercession, line the walls.
We were afforded the rare privilege, while visiting the Franciscan cloister, with its many paintings
and art objects, to also view the incredible collection of priceless religious objects – monstrances,
chalices, etc. in a very special treasury.
Rijeka is a major port and transportation hub, first settled
in pre-Roman times. We strolled along the busy pedestrian street and the dock area, admiring the classic
architecture of the old buildings. Dismayed at the tiny cups of coffee offered in this part of the world,
we decided to stop at a local McDonalds for some “real” coffee. We were asked did we want small or large.
Naturally, we chose large. Well, the large size turned to be only a few drops more than the small.
We sipped it very, very slowly. Back in Opitaja, we walked along the waterfront until the rain hastened
us indoors, attended 6PM mass in ST. JAKOB CHURCH, only a stone’s throw from our hotel, and supped at a
nearby “dine-around” restaurant.
Fri. 2/27
There are thousands of islands along the Adriatic Coast. On our optional excursion, we travel south of
KVARNER BAY towards KRK Island, which is connected to the mainland by the world famous concrete arch
bridge, built in 1979, at that time the largest of its type in the world. At the summer resort of PUNAT,
we ferry to nearby tiny KOSLJUN ISLAND to visit the Franciscan monastery with its extensive collection of
sacred art and ethnographic museum. Of great interest is the dramatic rendition of the Stations of the
Cross, clustered among the thick forest foliage.
Back in Punot, we lunched regally at KANAJT. Rain again fell by the time we arrived at KRK town, a well
preserved 12th to 15th century Roman period town within city walls. Rain notwithstanding, it is a pleasure
to visit these sites unencumbered by hordes of other tourists. We again attended mass, followed by a long
nighttime walk at seaside and about town.
Sat. 2/28
The Istrian Peninsula juts boldly into the Adriatic and is accessed via a long tunnel thru the mountains.
The Italian influenced coastal town of ROVINJ is an active sport resort mecca. In a light drizzle,
we climb a cobblestone stairway to the imposing baroque Church of St. Euphemia, visit the colorful produce
market, busy squares and docks, and enjoy the beautiful views of the sea. We lunched, family style, at a
nearby farm. The typical Croatian dishes were delicious and plentiful. By the time we reached the large port
city of PULA, the rain had begun in earnest, and our excellent guide did her best to give us a good tour from
the bus. Some of us did brave the elements to explore the 23,000 person ancient Roman amphitheater, which is
remarkably well preserved and interesting. At this point, the day rather fell apart. Because the foul
weather had shortened our outings, we expected to be back in OPATIJA around 3 o’clock. Not to be!
The pouring rain had morphed into a steady snowfall that had all the local small car drivers, completely
unprepared for driving under such conditions, skidding and stalling on the roads. We were delayed by several
accidents, and when we arrived at the long tunnel thru the mountains, were turned back. There had been an
accident in the tunnel, and that, combined with the heavy snows, prevented our entering. We had to retrace
all the way back to PULA, then find a new route home, meeting the same challenged as before. Our faithful
leaders kindly stopped to provide us with emergency refreshments, as they frantically called everyone possible
for information and support. Our alternate route was blocked to bus traffic due to major construction, so at
that point, we had to be transferred to hastily employed minivans for the last half hour of the journey to our
hotel. We arrived there at 8:15, harried but unscathed, only about 5 hours after expected.
Continue...
This trip to Italy and the Dalmatian Coast was made Feb. 17 – Mar. 5, 2004 by a New York State couple.
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