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Thurs. 12/6
We flew to LUXOR (1 hr.) early in the morning. Our first stop was at the TEMPLE OF KARNAK, the largest temple
complex in the world, covering 60 acres and built I 1500 BC. This stupendous achievement is definitely a
highlight of an Egyptian experience. A path of sphinxes, countless massive columns, pylons, beautifully
detailed hieroglyphics, the tallest obelisk in Egypt and still discernable paintings all add to the wonder
of the structure. The LUXOR MUSEUM is very small, but the exhibits of priceless ancient art are displayed
with elegance.
Late in the afternoon we met our home for the next 7 nights, the M/S RIVER ANUKET with a welcome drink made from
the hibiscus flower. The reason that our riverboat was berthed in ESNA instead of LUXOR is because for one
month of every year, the flood gates on the NEW ASWAN DAM are closed in order to allow Lake Nasser to fill
up, therefore, riverboats do not ply the Nile downstream from ESNA, since the ESNA Locks are not in operation.
The ANUKET is brand new, nicely appointed, and we were shocked to find our staterooms to be spacious with a
nicely sized real bathroom instead of the skimpy closet sized accommodations usually found on a moderately
priced boat. The meals prove to be very good, and the crew pleasant and accommodating.
This evening’s entertainment is a belly dancing show which proved to be a lot of fun (especially when the
belly dancer sat on Ed’s lap).
Fri. 12/7
The 4:14 AM Moslem call to prayer echoing thru the town announced a new morning. The call was repeated at 5 AM.
In ESNA (ISNA) the TEMPLE OF KHNUM lies well below present day street level. Most of the ruins are still to be
excavated and explored as they lay under present day structures. Who knows what riches have lain buried under
thousands of years of Nile sediment. The excavated temple had been originally built in Egyptian style, but
late additions bore Roman and Greek influences. We cruised south this afternoon thru the palm lined Nile and
rural countryside dotted with agricultural villages.
Sat. 12/8
The temple today is EDFU (IDFU), the most complete and best preserved of all the temples in Egypt.
This Ptolemaic structure was built on the site of ancient DJEBA, the traditional location of the mythological
battle between the gods of HORUS and SET. 38 columns surround the court and a statue of HORUS guards the entry.
Every available surface is carved with hieroglyphs describing offerings to the gods. This is the most “modern”
of the great temples and took 200 years to complete. The insides of the temples were lighted by openings in the
walls permitting sunshine to penetrate, and strategically places “mirrors” of silver that reflected the sun’s
rays throughout. This afternoon we sailed on to ASWAN where we docked for the next 2 nights.
This evening, we had our passenger “fashion show” where volunteers dressed in various Egyptian costumes
provided us. Ed portrayed a hagi clothed in a white sheet, while I became a typical drunken tourist.
Lots of laughs for everyone.
Sun. 12/9
We flew the 45 min. shuttle flight from ASWAN to ABU SIMBEL after having endured numerous and intense
security checks. The colossal temples of RAMSES II and NEFERTARI were carved into solid rock 3,000 years ago.
Four statues of the Pharoh RAMSES II, 60’ high and directly facing the rising sun, with his queen and daughters
at his feet, welcome you. Inside, many more tremendous statues surround you. But in 1963 when the construction
of the ASWAN DAM caused the waters of Lake Nasser to rise, thus imperaling the temple, the entire complex was
moved and painstakenly rebuilt on its present site by UNESCO engineers. The results are outstanding – one can
barely notice traces of the rehabilitation – and hopefully their heritage will remain forever.
Late in the afternoon we walked to the miles long market in ASWAN and practiced bargaining with the vendors.
After dinner we were entertained by a Nubian group of dancers and musicians. The music was primarily drums
and the male dancers were stirring. Audience participation was hilarious.
Continue...
This trip to cruise the Nile River in Egypt was made Dec. 01-14, 2001 by a New York State couple.
Your comments are welcome.
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